Early Medieval

Celtic. You can't go wrong with Celtic whether your persona is a Viking, a Gaul, a Pict, a Briton or a Goth. However, you won't find Celtic knots on these pages. I have found that there are more than enough vendors selling every type of Celtic jewelry imaginable. If you would like to see some, go to my links page for websites.

However, not all early Medieval jewelry is Celtic. Vikings traded far and wide. We have necklaces made of Islamic coins and African trade beads. If you're a Viking, you have a wide variety of necklace types to choose from. Lady's Maid Jewels now offers Viking Rock Crystal earrings!

There is also what is often called "Barbarian" art. It is the art made during the migration period, also called the Barbarian Invasion period. It encompasses Viking and some Celtic, but there is little knotwork or other distinctively Celtic elements. Instead, they used organic patterns and zoomorphic designs. For a few barbarian-inspired brooches and pendants, see my polymer clay collection.

Viking hoard treasures:   Bracelet of polished rock crystal.   Necklace of trade beads.     Necklace of Islamic coins.     Necklace of cloisonne (niello?) beads.   More trade beads.

Medieval

In truth, you don't have much to choose from. Styles and morals combined to discourage the wearing of most types of jewelry. There are no extant earrings and only a few necklaces. Better to just avoid these objects altogether. However, Brooches were an important part of the wardrobe. Along with jewelled belts of every kind, brooches were practical as well as decorative. They held up cloaks and tunics and various bits of fabric. In earlier times, there were penanular brooches of the type seen in celtic art. The most common type of brooch in the later middle ages is the circle pin, often jeweled, and usually with inscriptions extolling the virtues of a loved one. Courtly love also appeared in more elaborate brooches, where figures of lovers were formed in gold and enamelled in bright colors. Most of the more elaborate brooches that still exist, though, have religious scenes, often enamelled and adorned with pearls and precious stones.

Rings are also a must have. Again, practical and decorative, used as currency, identification, gifts, spiritual and physical (medicinal) protection, and official seals (signets). Like the brooches, many have inscriptions, often declarations of courtly love. Many of the rings were sculptural, with animals or religious scenes done in high relief. Rings were also enamelled if there was no large stone as a center piece. You should definitely have more than one, although not as many as in later periods. Every one wore rings, from lower class to nobility. Rings could be made of iron, copper, silver or gold. The material of the ring often denoted the wearer's social class. When choosing medieval rings, be sure to avoid faceted stones; wear only cabachons and cameos. Faceted stones do not appear regularly until the 14th century.

Crosses are an important accessory as well. If you have no aversion to wearing one, take a look at my polymer clay collection of medieval crosses.

 

Late Medieval/Early Renaissance

Along with a little more skin, we begin to see a little more jewelry. Necklaces begin to make an appearance, but mostly as collars. A collar necklace will most often be made of chains or enamelled jewels that sit low on the shoulders. Both men and women wore them, though the men's tended to be chains of state more often than not. Later on, collars become elaborate affairs with complicated twists and beads. Still no earrings yet, but Brooches and Rings have not disappeared. For true accuracy, avoid faceted stones in anything. They were not in use until much later on. Even so, you will find many designs here with faceted stones. Sometimes the modern world does intrude.

Girl (wearing a collar-type necklace) and Unicorn from the Unicorn Tapisteries

Renaissance/Elizabethan

Now we have all sorts of jewelry to chose from. Pearls are the key. Pearls are the most commonly used gem during this time. Earrings make an appearance early in the 16th century, particularly in Italy, where they are most often plain drop pearls with simple matching pearl choker. A variation on the pearl earring is the pearl drop suspended from a ribbon that matches the wearer's dress. Earrings don't make an appearance in England until later in Elizabeth's reign, when the Italian style pearl drop becomes popular for both men and women.

Tudor Necklaces are wonderful affairs, with a choker and pendant, and a longer matching necklace which disappears into the bodice. The necklaces will usually match the jewels on the neck of the dress and around the edge of the coif to make up a complete ensemble. These necklaces can be pearl or enamelled jewel links. In other countries, the collar is still popular, but mid-length necklaces come into vogue as well. These can be made of pearls, semi-precious beads, gold beads, gold chains, cloisonne beads or enameled jeweled links.

Young Queen Mary

ca. 1550

 

Jewellers discovered how to cut gems in the 14th century, so facted stones start appearing, particularly in Brooches and pendants. Brooches loose some of their practicality and become more elaborate. A big brooch with large faceted jewels and a large drop pearl would be at home on any bodice. And Rings. One must have rings of every size and description, and one or two for every finger. Single facted stones are nice, but avoid the tiny stones so common in modern jewelry. That type of ring only came into popularity in the late 17th - early 18th century.

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